After New York, London and Milan, it is Paris’ turn to host Fashion Week. But if we admire the looks and decorations of the parades, the models, who today should present more diverse and inclusive profiles, nevertheless seem increasingly thinner.
DSince last September 26, the Fashions are not on the sidewalk but have invaded the streets of the capital. And whileToday is the last day of Paris Fashion Week – Spring Summer 2023 –, the Y2K aesthetic, that is, the strong return of the 2000s, continues to impose itself on the catwalks and in our streets. But in the age of body positivity and so-called diversity, Wouldn’t this aesthetic be a threat to all the progress made?
Cargo pants – low waist –, mini skirt – ultra low waist –, crop top, bralette, slip dress and mini shorts: start summer body now, because next summer, the less you wear, the more likely you are to be in style. This was particularly the case during Givenchy’s last show, Stella McCartney agreed to downsize her suits, even the tightest, or even Coperni. A return to an aesthetic that is not to everyone’s taste.
Trend of the 2000s, TCA option
As the fashion of the 2000s continues to return, Miss In July 2021, he already remembered the issues surrounding his aesthetics, the glory days of Eating Disorders, body shaming and pro-ana networks, among other festivities. And if, since 2017, France requires its models to present a medical certificate attesting that “the model’s state of health, assessed in particular with regard to their body mass index (BMI), is compatible with the exercise of their profession ”, has Extreme thinness really disappeared from the catwalks? Has body positivity really taken over the incentive to lose weight?
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In May, Kim Kardashian was the victim of a backlash after revealing the “super diet” that had allowed her to wear the Marilyn Monroe dress at the last Met Gala and lose 7 kg in three weeks. A month later, in June, Sydney Sweeney, the famous actress from the series Euphoriacome to MTV Movie and Television Awards with an outfit in full Y2K trend that reminds us of the best -and worst- looks of our adolescence: ultra-tight crop top blouse and low-waisted Miu Miu miniskirt. Ya, Who What Did You See and mrs figaro questioned about this return to low-waisted fashion: if Fashion is an eternal restart, is it really the best idea in an era called “body positive”, without having a strong reappearance of body shaming and incitement to thinness – Often causing eating disorders in the youngest?
Diversity and body positivity in small doses
If any notable progress has been seen since the 2000s, such as slightly more diversity: non-white models are no longer as invisible, and 25% of the designers present during the last New York Fashion Week were black according to the Council of Fashion Designers. of America (CFDA) –, houses seem to attract more and more very skinny models, as was the case in the past. As the last Coperni show, forever in fashion history as Bella Hadid’s performance is exceptional, other questions arise. According to the media PeriodArnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer, behind the Coperni brand, said that they were addressing “you, women who transcend your morphologies (…) to you, women who accept aging”.
If older models seem absent from the catwalk, Period note that of the 38 models, only two are plus size”. Jill Kortleve, size 40 and Paloma Elsesser, size 44. Problem, according to a Clickndress study, sizes 40 and 42 would be the most used by the Frenchand 40% would wear a minimum of 44. So we let fast fashion brands replicate these outfits and sell a low-waisted skirt, size 42, that would be too small for someone who normally wears a 38. Shouldn’t we leave the 2000 in the past?, just like we decided to forget about our Skyblogs, Vanessa Bruno bags or the protruding thong? If Bella Hadid, Dua Lipa or Givenchy are nostalgic for these years, which were nevertheless synonymous with toxicity in many ways, we can keep some fashion pieces, but for the 2022-2023 collection we will not ask for extreme slimming options, body-shame. and TCA.
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