Men’s wardrobe: the code has changed

A chick yellow checkered suit adorned with cherry motifs, a green and pink knitted vest, white ankle boots with a red heart… The collection designed by Gucci and English pop star Harry Styles, called “Gucci HA HA HA”, in stores from November 3, sets the tone for the revival of menswear that has flourished on the catwalks in recent seasons.

The Victoria and Albert Museum in London has just dedicated an exhibition to the evolution of men’s clothing through the ages, entitled “Fashioning Masculinities: the Art of Menswear”. “Men’s fashion is experiencing a period of unprecedented creativity”, say Claire Wilcox and Rosalind McKever, the exhibition’s curators. If creators today have fun with the codes of masculinity, what happens in “real life”? Is it just fashion week and red carpet fantasy?

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On a day-to-day basis, the man still seems quite limited in his appearance, at least in the work context, where, outside of creative circles, we find very few cherry suits or heart boots. However, what is highly functional –jeans, a T-shirt, a well-fitting suit…– today gives way to a touch of supposed eccentricity on the street and in shops. And it’s no coincidence that Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s head of style since 2015, has teamed up with Harry Styles. At 28 years old, the singer and actor is part of a new generation of artists who express themselves both through his art and his appearance, like David Bowie in the 70s.

The blood-red bare back of Timothée Chalamet

Color clashes, pattern combinations, gender-bending pieces: Harry Styles has a serious competitor in the person of Timothée Chalamet. At 26, the French-American actor, revealed by the film Call me by your name in 2017, he doesn’t hesitate to periodically shake up our idea of ​​the male wardrobe. His appearance in September on the red carpet at the Venice Film Festival, where he went to defend the film bones and allby Lucas Guadagnino, left no one indifferent: in fact, he wore a blood red jumpsuit, with a completely uncovered back, and fastened by a bow that closed at the neck, imagined by the French designer Haider Ackermann.

Timothée Chalamet, dressed as Haider Ackermann, during the presentation of the film

Not using the services of a personal stylist, as is often the case with celebrities, Timothée Chalamet likes to play with clothes, even if it means disrupting people’s minds. We saw him, during the 2019 Golden Globes, in a black shirt and pants ensemble adorned with an incredible headgear completely covered in sparkly sequins. A piece signed by Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton. Disappeared in November 2021, Virgil Abloh, who since his appointment at Vuitton in 2018 mixed streetwear and luxury elements in his wardrobe, has greatly contributed to redefining the look of men in recent years. An evolution that we see in a handful of designers who work both for established houses –Alessandro Michele at Gucci, Kim Jones at Dior Men…– and independently.

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