Sharp spikes, neo-armor or punk culture… An overview of the jewelery highlights on the catwalks of New York, London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks.
Definitely the strong trend of the season. Faced with the pains of history and raging climate anxiety, designers respond with jewelry designed like walls. In sight, the metal-clad hands from the Courrèges show, but also the pointed chokers from Acne Studios or Diesel, not to mention the knuckle ring from the Valentino show. In short, an attractive counteroffensive.
figures of speech
Totem of style now essential in hybrid houses, logomania-style jewelery competes this season in creativity. In this game, Chanel seduces with a rock crystal reinterpretation of her Hula Hoop bag, while Valentino offers a graphic and pop reading of his signature V.
A sure bet that has graced every silhouette at Saint Laurent’s runway shows since Anthony Vaccarello took over at the helm of the Parisian house, spring-summer 2023 jewelry has once again set the tone. In the upper part, the same sleeve effect that had already been accentuated the previous season, with special attention this time to the use of these bracelets, which rest on the garment, and not below. An adornment that also takes over Junya Watanabe, Rick Owens or Off-White parades.
Visual heritage of the punk culture that was all the rage on the catwalks for autumn-winter 2022-2023, the piercing offers a fair excess this season, taking all the light. Like a lip jewel in Balmain and Messika high jewelery shows, when Balenciaga or Giambattista Valli opt for facial adornment. An illusion, of course.
An avalanche of cabochons of different sizes and colors… It’s the beautiful mix & match that Louis Vuitton offers this season in chokers or XXL earrings. A spirit of heritage revised in the manner of a more contemporary upcycling, which can also be found in a more literal way at Giambattista Valli in Paris or Carolina Herrera in New York. A single slogan: dare with the extreme volume that sets fire to gunpowder.
spirit of madonna
This is the project that is causing a lot of ink, although it is not finished yet. Expected for next year, the biopic about and directed by Madonna (starring Julia Garner in the title role) is already bringing to light the essence of her iconic style. And especially their vintage crucifix pendants. As a prayer that therefore we find this season in Blumarine, Gucci or Dolce & Gabbana. A divine jewel necessarily tinged, like all trends for a few seasons, with a very early 2000s aura. Half Madonna, half Sarah Michelle Gellar in cruel intentions Then.