Unsurprisingly, the brands remain uninclusive in terms of size, excluding the podium.

It was in New York that the largest carvings paraded, followed by Milan, Paris, then London, which won the award for lack of morphological diversity. While Insta advocates for diversity, the reality of catwalks and tidy clothing remains as grossophobic as ever.

The capitals of western fashion (New York, London, Milan, then Paris) have just presented their proposals for spring-summer 2023. This fashion month Now finished, it’s time to draw different conclusions. The media Fashion for example just set a study on the diversity of morphologies that are presented on the catwalks, and it is obviously as enlightening as it is worrying.

Of 327 brands that parade, only 30 go beyond size 48

Indeed, Of the 327 brands on official calendars, only 30 (9%) are larger than size 20 in the US (or 48 in France). Unsurprisingly, the vast majority of these plus-size labels (22 of the 30 listed) are in the United States, where the average size is between 16 and 18 (between a 44 and a French 46). In fact, 70% of the brands that parade would go to the maximum up to 42 according to the report of the study ofFashion.

The Selkie brand, America’s champion of clothing size diversity. © Instagram screenshot.

Contrary to what one might think, it is not Paris that sits at the head of the most exclusive brands in terms of size, but London this season. Only 1% of designers in the English capital were larger than size 20 (=48), and 27% were smaller than size 14 (=42). Next comes Paris, then Milan and finally New York, which therefore offers the largest sizes.

And yet, if we study these statistics more closely, we can quickly realize the poverty of the supply of plus sizes, which obviously refers to joggings and sweatshirts much more often than to sophisticated pieces.

A damning inventory of the market in all its grossophobia

Note that, on the methodology side, Fashion was not content to look at what was happening on the catwalks (because not everything will necessarily be produced, and the full range of sizes not necessarily represented), but what buyers could ask for (that is, what will be sold a few months later). ). at retailers).

Something to avoid falling into the trap of ostentatious virtue (use one or two mannequins plus size as collateral body positive of the show when we only offer very few plus size garments that are really on sale), but to present a relevant inventory of the market, in all its grossophobia.

Screenshot 2022-10-10 at 16.30.21
French brand Ester Manas offers one-size-fits-all clothing that is supposed to fit all body types. © Instagram screenshot.

Note that the champion of size diversity is the Selkie brand, which comes from the United States and goes up to 36 US (= 64 French). In France, the champions would be Givenchy and Valentino, who go up to 52. Special case: Ester Manas, who offers one-size-fits-all garments that are supposed to fit all body types.

Please note, however, that in addition to the simple gradation stretch system (i.e. the automatic extrapolation of measurements from one size to another, adding some percentages of fabrics at strategic points such as waist circumference, sleeves, etc.), sometimes it is better to turn to specialized brands that have the experience to sponsor plus size clothing. No fatphobia.

Also read:

Why Carrie Bradshaw’s Pigeon Clutch Makes Fashionistas So Angry

Cover photo credit: Instagram screenshots.

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