Young designers lead a small revolution in the Italian fashion ecosystem

How do you say Jacques in Italian? Here is a glue. In France, the 33-year-old fashion designer born in Salon-de-Provence, but also creators such as Alexandre Mattiussi or Marine Serre have shown in ten years that it is possible to sign a coherent and commercial wardrobe, to be successful without giving up the sirens of the great houses. Meanwhile, on the other side of the Alps, there is no equivalent. Furthermore, for the last fifteen years, foreign critics have often returned from Milan fashion week, pointing out the lack of young shoots capable of enriching the landscape and preparing the future, while emphasizing the overwhelming omnipresence of Gucci, Prada, Armani and other Dolce & Gabbana, globalized giants born in the 20thme century.

“For a long time, the success of famous houses played an ambivalent role in front of young talents. On the one hand, they created a favorable environment for them to obtain opportunities in these structured groups. On the other, they overshadowed any new names that came along., observes Emanuela Scarpellini, professor of contemporary history at the University of Milan. France, by contrast, is more lenient with the last born, providing scholarships and prizes; when the proposal is worthwhile, the Fédération de la haute couture et de la mode reserves a space for them on the official calendar of Paris fashion week.

Vitelli, spring-summer 2023 collection.

It is true that in Italy, regenerative labels, such as MSGM or Sunnei, founded in 2009 and 2014, have been slowly emerging. But it is above all in the last three years that a true renaissance has finally taken place. Internationally, things have started to float, for example, Jezabelle Cormio’s 31-year-old Jezabelle Cormio’s deviating wardrobe from Tyrolean folklore, Marco Rambaldi’s 31-year-old Bohemian audacity enhanced by Bolognese craftsmanship, or, more recently, Vitelli’s “upcycled” knitwear, founded by Mauro Simionato and Giulia Bortoli, 40 years old.

Of course, we are still far from strong businesses, such as that of a Jacquemus that reached 100 million euros in turnover in 2021 and aspires to reach 500 million in 2025, data that has just been revealed to the specialized media. the fashion business. The new Italian guard, outlines its first steps, in still confidential parades and above all parallel presentations to the barnums of the mastodons.

read also Simon Porte Jacquemus: “You have to find the balance to be unique and wearable”

For Veronica Leoni, the launch of her brand “It wasn’t a deep-seated ambition: I had never thought about it.” Romaine, 37 years old and with the brush cut, has been in the clothing industry for fifteen years. His taste, minimalist and distinguished, added to his ability to design functional products, earned him a first-rate resume in the sector of luxury without ostentation, surpassed by Jil Sander, Celine, and since 2018 responsible for the permanent line of Moncler women .

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